This week provides instructions for the basic construction techniques required to make most corsets. It shows how to create an Underbust Corset from a single layer of fabric with the patterns created in The Underbust Pattern.
To create a wearable corset, start by making a paper copy of the sloper pattern so you can make adjustments for a specific design and record the necessary information. The corset is made from a single layer of fabric, preferably coutil, the traditional fabric used for corsets.
Unlike the patterns for the muslin mock-up, the finished corset does not require seam allowances along the top and bottom edges. The top and bottom are bound edges and only require an edge binding allowance which does not change the height of the corset. This means that the height of the patterns should be the height of the finished corset. The edge binding allowance is typically 3/8" (9 mm).
Prepare the Pattern
Use pattern paper to copy the Underbust Corset sloper. Do not include the seam allowances.
To indicate the top edge binding allowance, draw lines 3/8" (9 mm) down from the top of the pattern.
If you are using precut boning, adjust the bottom of the corset as required to accommodate the available lengths. The boning should be 1/2" (12 mm) shorter than the distance between the edge bindings. For this example, the boning should be 1-1/2" (38 mm) shorter than the height of the corset at each boning location.
For the bottom edge binding allowance, draw lines 3/8" (9 mm) up from the bottom of the corset.
On the sides of all pattern pieces, draw 1/2" (12 mm) seam allowances.
Draw in the location of the waist stay tape.
Add sewing notches and label the pattern pieces clearly.
For a left and right side, cut two of each pattern from the fashion fabric.
For the facing, cut two each of the center front and center back patterns from the fashion fabric.
If fusible interfacing is going to be used to reinforce the grommets, cut four of the center back panels from the interfacing.
The top and bottom edges of the corset can be finished with bias tape, Petersham ribbon, or strips made from the fashion fabric. The instructions below show how to create strips of bias tape from woven fashion fabric. The bias tape for this project will be 1-1/2" (36 mm) which is 4 times the 3/8" (9 mm) finished width of the binding.
On the following page instructions show how to make edging strips from knit fabric that stretches. This type of edging is not used for the current corset but is a basic construction techniques used for other projects.
Bias Tape Edging
To determine the necessary length of the bias tape, measure the top and bottom edges of the corset.
Following the true bias, draw 1-1/2" (36 mm) wide chalk lines on the fashion fabric. Rotary cutting mats sometimes have this line indicated on the grid.
Cut enough bias strips to achieve the lengths determined in Step 1.
To join together lengths of bias strips, pin the straight of the grain with the strips at right angles to each other, good sides together.
Cutting Bias Tape
Joining Bias Tape
Sewn Bias Tape
Stretch Fabric Edging
Several corsets described in this series use stretch fabric. For this type of corset, the edging can be cut from the fashion fabric as shown in the instructions below.
The edging should be cut so the direction of maximum stretch follows the length of the strip. For many stretch fabrics, such as the fabric in the video, the direction of maximum stretch is along the width of the fabric. There are, however, some stretch fabrics where the direction of maximum stretch is along the length. In which case, the strip should be cut using the selvedge edge as the guide.
To determine the necessary length of the edging strip, measure the top and bottom edges of the corset.
Use the grid on a rotary cutting mat to layout the fabric. If the fabric is folded, verify that the selvedge edge is parallel to the fold of the fabric.
With the fold along the vertical edge of the cutting mat, trim the top of the fabric using the horizontal lines of the cutting mat as a guide.
Measure down from the top edge of the fabric the width of the desired edging strip, then cut.
Locating the opening busk at center front allows a wearer to put a corset on and take it off without the assistance of another person. One side of the busk has a series of loops. The other has a series of knobs that the loops fit over. The loops are traditionally on the right side of the corset with the knobs on the left. For left-handed wearers, it may be more convenient to switch this configuration. Both sides of a busk are sewn between the center front panels of the fashion fabric and the facing. The video on this page shows the process for adding the knob side of the busk.
Inserting the Knob Half of the Busk
Pin the left fashion fabric to the left facing, right sides together, then sew the center front seam.
Press the seam allowance then trim to 1/4" (6 mm).
Place the fashion fabric over the knob side of the busk, aligning the edge of the busk to the center front seam. The busk should be 1/4" (6 mm) down from the edge allowance.
Start at the top and use an awl to open a hole in the fashion fabric for the first knob to work its way through.
Continue down the busk, opening holes for each of the knobs.
Fold the fabric so the seam allowance is under the busk and the fashion fabric and facing are correctly aligned on top of each other, wrong sides together.
Use a zipper foot to sew the busk securely between the fashion fabric and the facing.
Knob side of Busk
Inserting the Loop Half of the Busk
Pin the right fashion fabric to the facing, right sides together.
Place the right fashion fabric next to the left, aligning the top and bottom edges.
Place the loop side of the busk on top of the right fashion fabric and mark where the loops will fall along the center front seam.
Sew the center front seam leaving gaps for the loops.
Slip the loop side of the busk through the seam allowances.
Fold the fabric so the fashion fabric and facing are correctly aligned on top of each other, wrong sides together.
Use a zipper foot to sew the busk securely between the fashion fabric and the facing.
Verify that the busk will close properly before proceeding with the remainder of the corset construction process.
Grommets are typically used for lacing corsets. The grommets can be added to the center back of the corset during the initial phase of the construction process. The instructions below show how to add grommets between 1/4" (6 mm) boning channels.
Adding grommets is a two step process. The first step is to prepare the center back panel. After the fabric is prepared, the grommets can be inserted as shown in the video on the next page.
Prepare the Center Back Panel
Fuse the interfacing to each center back facing and fashion fabric panel.
Pin the center back fashion fabric to the center back facing, right sides together, then sew. Use a stretch stitch or two lines of stitching each a different length, to reinforce the seam.
Press the center back seam open, then trim the seam allowance to the width of the boning, 1/4" (6 mm).
Fold the fabric so the fashion fabric and facing are correctly aligned on top of each other, wrong sides together. Pin or baste in place.
Place a length of boning along the center back seam between the seam allowances.
To create the first boning casing, use a zipper foot to top stitch the fashion fabric to the facing along the edge of the boning.
To determine the edge of the second boning casing, place a grommet next to the boning. Top stitch the fashion fabric to the casing at this width, parallel to center back.
Place a length of boning next to the stitching from Step 7.
To create the second boning casing, use a zipper foot to top stitch the fashion fabric to the facing along the edge of the boning.
Remove the boning.
Locate the center for the grommets half way between the two boning casings and draw on the facing a line parallel to center back at this width.
Locate the center of the top and bottom grommets clear of the edge binding.
Divide the remaining distance between the top and bottom grommets so that there is no more than 1" (24 mm) between grommets.
Inserting Grommets
Punch holes at all grommet locations.
Use a grommet setting tool to secure the grommets in place. The shank side of the grommet should go through the fashion fabric side with the washer on the facing side. On the facing side, apply Fray Check around the shank.
Once the center front and center back panels have been prepared with the opening busk and grommets, the body of the corset can be sewn. For this example, the boning is added at the seam locations. If desired, additional boning can be added between the seams as determined during the fitting of the muslin mock-up.
Pin the corset, right sides together, then sew along each seam location.
Press open the seams, then trim the two sides of the seam allowances to different widths. If one side is 1/2" (12 mm), the second side should be 3/8" (9 mm). This is referred to as grading the seam allowances.
Press the seam allowances toward the side of the corset. The seam allowances should not be pressed open. It is a good idea to hand or machine baste the seam allowances in place at this point.
Pin a length of twill tape along the waist stay lines.
Turn the twill tape under at center front and center back to the inside of the boning and busk.
Sew it in place at the seam locations, then stab stitch it by hand along the edges. Alternatively, you can machine top stitch it to the fashion fabric.
Baste bone casings over the seam allowances, then sew in place. Be careful to sew along the casings' edges so the boning can be easily inserted. Sew next to the seam first then the opposite side.
Remove the basting.
Align a length of bias tape along the bottom edge of the corset, right sides together, with the raw edges aligned. Fold back the ends of the bias tape so they will be encased when finished, then sew in place.
Turn the bias tape over and press.
Turn the raw edge of the bias tape under and press.
Roll the bias tape over the corset so the folded edge matches the seam from Step 9, then hand stitch in place.
The boning can now be cut to length, finished, then inserted in the casings. After the boning is added, the top edge of the corset can be bound. This example shows how to cut and work with spring steel boning.
Determine the length necessary for each piece of boning.
Cut to length by first snipping one side of the boning, then the second.
Place a boning tip on the end and hold in place with a pair of needle nose pliers, then pinch the tip from the sides with a second set of pliers. Verify the tip is secured.
Thread the boning into the boning channels.
Align a length of bias tape along the top edge of the corset, right sides together, with the raw edges aligned. Fold back the ends of the bias tape so they will be encased when finished, then sew in place.
Turn the bias tape and press.
Turn the raw edge of the bias tape under and press.
Roll the bias tape over the corset so the folded edge matches the seam created in Step 5, then hand stitch in place.
The lacing cord for the corset needs to be the correct length. This will vary depending on the gap between the grommets, the number of grommets, the style of the lacing and how it is to be tied.
After you have created the corset, you can approximate the width that the opening should be when it is worn so you can thread uncut lacing to determine its required length. In addition to the length needed for the lacing, allow a total of 24" (60 cm) for tying. For self dressing, allow an additional 48" (120 cm) for bunny ears.
The ends of lacing cord need to be finished to prevent them from fraying. It you have shoe laces the correct length, no finish is required. If the lacing is synthetic fiber, it can be cut with a hot knife. The description below shows how to use heat shrink tubing to finish the ends.
Lay out the two sides of the corset with a space between that approximates the corset's gap after it is laced.
Thread the lacing cord through the grommets.
Add another 24" (60 cm) to the length of the cord for tying the corset closed. If the corset is to be self laced, add an additional 48" (120 cm) for the bunny ears.
Bind one end of the lacing cord with thread.
Trim the lacing cord to eliminate any fraying.
Add a spot of water resistant glue to the end.
Cut two lengths of heat shrink tubing, each 1/2" (12 mm) long.
Use a needle to pull the end of the lacing cord through the shrink wrap tube.
Use a hair drier or heat gun to shrink the tubing to the cord.
Repeat the process with the other end of the lacing cord.
A modesty panel, also called a lacing panel, can be added at center back to reside behind the laced grommets. It serves two purposes. One is to cover the exposed skin between the two center back panels. The other is to protect the wearer's skin from rubbing against the lacing and grommets. The process of adding a modesty panel is shown here as a two step process. The first step is to determine the size of the panel and create a pattern. The second step is to create the actual panel. The steps here show how to create a modesty panel with two vertical bones on the sides of the panel and four horizontal bones between the vertical bones. Boning keeps the modesty panel in place even during self lacing.
The Pattern
Lay out the two sides of the corset with a space between that approximates the corset's gap after it is laced.
To determine the width of the modesty panel, measure from the grommets on the left side of the corset to the right side. Include the boning on either side of the grommets.
From the inside edge of the bias tape edging, measure the height of the corset.
On a piece of pattern paper, draw a rectangle for the modesty panel using the measurements from Steps 2 & 3.
Double the width of the pattern, then add 1/2" (12 mm) seam allowances to all edges and label the pattern.
Measure Laced Corset
Modesty Panel Pattern
Creating the Modesty Panel
Fold the width of the modesty panel in half, right sides together, then pin and sew the top and bottom closed using a 1/2" (12 mm) seam allowance.
Trim the corners, then turn the modesty panel right side out.
Cut two lengths of spiral steel boning to fit into the height of the modesty panel, then finish the ends.
Insert one of the vertical bones into the modesty panel next to the fold, then use a zipper foot to sew it in place.
On the facing side of the modesty panel, draw a line for the position of the second vertical bone. This line should allow for a 1/2" (12 mm) seam allowance and the width of the bone.
Measure the distance between the two vertical bones, then cut and finish four lengths of spiral steel boning.
Insert a horizontal bone into the top seam allowance of the modesty panel, then use a zipper foot to sew it in place. Do not sew beyond the line established in Step 5.
To add a bone to the bottom of the modesty panel, repeat Step 7.
Space the two remaining horizontal bones evenly on the modesty panel. Then for each bone, draw a line along one side.
Insert the two horizontal bones, then sew them in place.
Sew along the line drawn in Step 5. Avoid the ends of the horizontal bones.
Insert the remaining vertical bone, then sew in place.
Sew a zigzag stitch along the unfinished edge of the modesty panel.
Pin the modesty panel to the inside of the corset and hand stitch in place.
Pin Bias Tape to Right Side
Turn Bias Tape to Inside
