Online Patternmaking Classes
by Don McCunn
Underwire Bra Home Page ► Week Two
Making a Bra Sloper Mold
One of the most important steps in the process of creating a custom-fit underwire bra is to create a Bra Sloper Mold which shows the exact shape of the body from above the bust to below the bust.
This is a process you can do yourself as you will see in the videos for the Paper Towel & Bust Sling variation. But if you have a helper, you may find certain steps easier. However, that helper should be as anxious for you to have a beautifully shaped sloper as you are.
I would suggest making a trial Bra Cup Mold first as described in the Trial Bra Cup Mold pdf file, especially if you are working with a helper.
There are two main approaches you can use to create a Bra Sloper Mold. One approach uses paper towels to cover the body before applying the masking tape for the final mold. You may also use this approach over a garment such as a knit tank top.
The second approach uses Glad's Press'n Seal to "body sculpt" the breasts into the desired shape before applying masking tape to create the final mold. This approach is best used by applying the Press'n Seal directly to the skin.
The videos for the Paper Towel show making the mold as a Do-It-Yourself (DIY) process. The videos for Press'n Seal show making a mold as a two person process. Either approach can be used as a two person or DIY process.
You should make the entire Sloper Mold at one time. However I would suggest watching all the videos before beginning either approach.
A Note on the Videos: In the videos that show Leah you will see some strange configurations of bias tape. These are videos created for my first bra making class and I had some strange ideas on how to support the breasts for women who did not have a suitable bra. It is a process I have since abandoned as the techique using Press'n Seal is far superior.
The breast is soft tissue which may be shaped in different ways. The video below shows the basic factors involved in sculpting the body for a Bra Sloper Mold.
Introduction to Shaping the Mold
The videos below will take you through the process from preparing the towel for the bra cup to drawing the seam lines on the Sloper Mold. Depending on whether the breast is self supporting or not, you may use the Bust Sling to shape the breast while you create the mold.
Introduction to the Paper Towel Sloper Mold
The Back Band
Sculpting the Bra Cup
Drawing the Seam Lines
Press'n Seal is a "Multipurpose Sealing Wrap." It uses a special "Griptex" gripping technology that is only activated when pressure is applied. You can apply it, remove it, and reapply it. It is strong enough that it can be used to support even large breasts while a Bra Sloper Mold is created.
The videos for this approach show the Press'n Seal being applied directly to my model's skin. The first video shows how to apply Press'n Seal to the back when you are doing it yourself (DIY).
The sequence and direction you apply the Press'n Seal allows you to control the shaping you wish to achieve. To see how the shaping can be affected, see the Effect of Press'n Seal Sculpting pdf file.
DIY Press'n Seal for the Back
Applying the Press'n Seal
Completing the Mold
Copyright © 2007, & 2020 by Donald H. McCunn