The Sleeve Sloper can be used to create a variety of different styles. Some examples of variations are included in How to Make Sewing Patterns on pages 111 through 120, 2nd ed. (pages 119 through 129, 1st ed.). The basic concept underlying all these design variations is to envision the design you want. Then transfer the design lines to a copy of the sloper and develop the patterns for the actual garment.
When you are creating these design variations, I recommend that you first copy the sloper, add the design lines to the sloper, then on a fresh sheet of pattern paper trace your new pattern design. Following this approach allows you to keep a record of the entire process for later reference.
The video below is a pseudo runway demonstration of the styles I will be describing this week.
Sleeve Variations
For several of these garments I will be suggesting you finish the hems of the garments and sometimes the sleeves using a rolled hem. The easiest way I have found to create a rolled hem is to use fusible thread. The video below demonstrates how to do this.
Knit Tops
The main difference between the Sleeve Sloper for knits as opposed to woven fabric is that when the knit has adequate stretch, the patterns do not need to include ease. If a knit has a lot of stretch, the sleeve pattern may even include negative ease. For example, the pattern at the bicep might be less than the Biceps measurement, #10. However I have not encountered a situation where I have found that to be appropriate.
In these two examples I show how the sleeve pattern has been adjusted first for a close fitting top then for a looser sweat shirt style.
Bolero Jacket
This example shows how to create a two piece jacket sleeve. In addition to the two piece sleeve, the instructions show how to change the above bust dart to the side seam.
Peasant Tops I have detailed instructions for creating a Peasant Top in How to Make Sewing Patterns on page 145, 2nd ed. (page 130, 1st ed.). They can be made direct from measurements and do not require a sloper. The reason I wanted to show the Peasant Sleeve here is to illustrate the difference changing the amount of fullness can make. The photo on the left is one and a half times fullness (150%) and the photo on the right shows double fullness (200%). The fabric used is cotton gauze.
Scalloped Blouse I am very intrigued by the work of Erte. For many years I have wanted to create a blouse that used his idea of alternating the buttons first on the left then the right, hence the scallops.
In this example, the sleeves explore the combination of fullness from gathers and fullness from a horizontal seam in the sleeve.
Period Fusion Blouse This Period Fusion Blouse with hanging sleeves came about as an exploration of using contemporary variations with period design ideas. The neck line is inspired by the work of Yves St. Laurent.
The important pattern design technique I wanted to illustrate with this example is moving the sleeve seam to the back of the arm for any garment with a hanging sleeve. If you don't do this, the sleeve will twist around the upper arm as gravity weighs down the lower portion of the sleeve.
