Don McCunn's Blog

Online Classes – Why Take One?

When I first started thinking of teaching pattern design online I seriously considered the question “Why should anyone take a class I offer online?” My description that follows is going to be a little long winded. Fortunately I have a student in my last class that put it very succinctly. I quote her below with her permission.

“I am really enjoying your class. When I was looking at it originally, I wasn’t sure it would be profitable for me since I already had your book. But, with the videos and the critiquing I’m finding it incredibly helpful.”

Karen, Beijing, China (member of How to Make and Upper Torso (aka Bodice) Sloper)

Researching Other Online Classes

I took several online classes to see how others were doing it. The ones I took involved receiving printed material in PDF format, forums, and chats where I could discuss with the instructor the issues that came up in the class.

I was already doing most of this through my book How to Make Sewing Patterns, my eBook How to Make Custom-Fit Bras, and my Yahoo Group forums which are free to anyone interested (see the Blogroll sidebar). The difference between these online classes and my groups and books is that the online classes were available for a limited time period. What I was doing was available 365 days a year. I wanted to be able to offer something of value that went beyond what I was already doing.

Videos for Class Demonstrations and Lectures

I remembered back in the 70s when I first started using my book to teach Pattern Design through the San Francisco Community College Adult Education division. It was a real eye opener to see that when I did a classroom demonstration people who had read my book all of a sudden started to get it. I could see the light bulbs going off in their eyes.

At the time I wanted to create video presentations that would not be limited by the geographic location of San Francisco. But that would have involved creating 8mm movies and people would have needed film projectors and projection screens. I did not think this was a practical alternative.

With the advent of the internet I realized I could now provide the visual demonstrations I had been doing in class through streaming videos like those on YouTube. I started my classes with that in mind. I create these videos so people can download them to their own computer for a permanent resource. For people in my classes on slow internet connections, I provide the videos on a CD. I make the videos not more than 5 to 6 minutes long so they download quickly. This also makes it easy to zero in on a particular topic like chapters in a book.

Fitting Critiques

Then as I was teaching the basic fitted sloper classes I realized I could critique people’s fitting issues through photos they submitted to me through the class (see below for an example). These critiques allow me to give a very careful evaluation of the fitting issues which I put into PDF format. This allows the individual to have a permanent reference they can access any time. It also allows everyone in the class to see the issues other people need to address for their particular body shape.

Doors are Open 365 Days a Year

It also occurred to me that while in a bricks-and-mortar school doors need to physically open and close, there is no such restriction over the internet. So I have adopted the policy that once you take a class, you can have access to the class for as long as you need. When I reopen a class for another scheduled session, I will reinstate you in the class roster at no additional charge.

Ongoing Course Development

It is this combination of factors and the enthusiasm of my online students that keeps me committed to continue my online patternmaking classes. I am thrilled to be able to develop additional online classes that delve into aspects of pattern design that I have been unable to approach when teaching in a bricks-and-mortar environment.

Additional Blog Entries

• Registering, Enrolling, Time Commitment, & Beginning Sewers
• Scheduled Classes, Independent Studies, Repeating a Class & The Sandbox Classroom
• My Mantra: “Nature Never Repeats the Same Shape Twice”
• An Example of a Class Dialog with a Student
• A Fitting Challenge: The Asymmetrical Body & A Sample Fitting Critique (a PDF File)
• All Online Class Blog Entries (multiple pages)

Marking for DIY Fittings

Back in the 1970s I wrote in my book How to Make Sewing Patterns about how you could fit yourself using typewriter ribbon to mark those hard to reach places. Who would know back then that typewriter ribbon would become so hard to obtain.

Fortunately I have found a product that works as a wonderful substitute for typewriter ribbon. It is called Chaco Liner from Clover Products. This product comes in a dispenser that allows you to draw lines on fabric using a device with a spoked wheel. The video below shows how to use the Chaco Liner Refill to mark the hard to reach locations such as the top of back darts and seams like the neck curve.

My Online Classes

I have been getting emails asking about how my online Patternmaking classes work. So I thought I’d post the information here and direct people to this information.

Registering for the School:
To take a class you first need to register at the school. This is a one time process that simply confirms your email address. You can do this at the Sign Up page.

Enrolling in a Class
Once you have registered with the school, you can then enroll in a class. You enroll in a class by paying the enrollment fee through PayPal. You do not need to have a PayPal account. You can use a credit card to pay the fee. People who do not want to do that should contact me at Don@deofsf.com for alternate means of paying for the class.

Time Commitment
One of the biggest questions people have is about the time commitment for the classes. People want to know how they can work the class into their schedule. My classes are a combination of running on a schedule and being self paced.

Once you have enrolled and before I start a class when you go to the classroom you will see a “Welcome” section. Then as per the schedule I open up the class one week at a time. Each week contains videos and other information. There is a forum where people enrolled in the class can ask questions about the material. Everyone has a chance to see these questions.

There is a once weekly interactive one hour chat that is at a specific time. As people take my classes from all around the world, not everybody participates in the chats. I always post a transcript afterward. This is the only time sensitive part of the class.

Once a week is opened, I leave the information available until the class starts again which is usually a year later. You can visit the classroom at any time 24 hours a day 7 days a week. You can download the videos to your computer as a permanent reference. So because I never close the doors, if your schedule does not permit you to keep up with each week, you can always come to the material when you are ready for it. For information about repeating a class at no charge, see my Class Scheduling post.

For the sloper classes I do fitting critiques from pictures people in the class submit. To my mind the videos which show the procedures in real time and the fitting critiques are the most valuable aspect of these classes. Basically it is like having a private one-on-one class to help you create the various patterns and garments. And you can watch the videos as often as you want. I am happy to help you almost 365 days a year–even I need an occasional day off.

My Online Classes Compared to Bricks-and-Mortar Classes
I have a classroom where I compare my approach to online classes to bricks-and-mortar classes. It is The Sandbox classroom. You do not need to be registered with the school to go to this free classroom. You can use the “Log in as a guest” feature.

Beginning Sewers:
I have another free classroom for people who are beginning sewers. This classroom has examples of the videos I use and provides basic techniques that you will need to assemble garments. You are welcome to use this free Sewing Room classroom with the “Log in as a guest” feature.

If you have additional questions, do not hesitate to contact me at Don@dceofsf.com.

Online Patternmaking Class Scheduling

My Online Patternmaking Classes are scheduled to begin at different times throughout the year. So far I have only offered any given course once a year. I am very interested in expanding the courses I offer to explore design variations for different types of garments. As I add more courses it may take more than a year before I repeat a given course. I am committed to offering the basic sloper classes (Bras, Upper Torso, Sleeves, Lower Torso, & Pants) at least once a year.

I am flexible about accommodating people who do not want to wait for a class to “officially” begin. Here is the difference between taking one of my classes when it is scheduled and taking it as an “Independent Studies class” at any time that is suitable for you.

Scheduled Class Time:
When a class is scheduled for a given time I usually open it for enrollment two weeks before it starts. When I open it for enrollment I announce it to my Yahoo groups and notify my Email List. Once a class is open for enrollment and before class starts enrolled students will see a “Welcome to…” section.

Each of my classes is divided into a series of weeks. Once the scheduled time occurs, I open the appropriate week. These weeks include streaming videos as my lecture/demonstrations. There may also be some additional web pages or PDF files depending on the content of the class.

Each week there is a one hour interactive chat at a specific time that enrolled students are welcome to participate in. I post transcripts of these chats immediately afterward for everyone in the class. There is also a forum where people can ask questions and share their ongoing patternmaking experience. Some enjoy hearing how others in the class are progressing. Participating in the chats and the forum are voluntary.

Independent Studies Class Times:
If you wish to take one of my classes that is currently not scheduled, contact me at Don@deofsf.com and tell me the class you are interested in taking. I will open it for enrollment long enough for you to join the class.

If the class is currently running, you will see the material for the class according to the scheduled time. You can participate in whatever chats remain.

If it is outside of the class’s normal scheduled time, you will see all the material for all the weeks of the class. You will also be able to read the messages to the forum and the transcripts of the chats. You can post any questions or comments you have in the forum.

Open Time Management
It is up to you to schedule when you do the work for my online classes. There are no deadlines for submitting completed projects and no grades for completing the work for the class. I will not be breathing down your neck asking when you are going to finish a task. There are no doors that open or close.

I am available to help you whenever and however you need it 365 days a year (almost–I do take an occasional day off). Once you are in one of my classes I place no time limit for how long I will be available to help you. I want to see you successfully accomplish the work you set out to do no matter how long that may take to achieve.

Repeating a Class
My current policy is not to charge when you want to repeat a class you have already taken. The school software automatically bumps people who do not use a given class for half a year. But if that happens and you want to get back in, just contact me and I will reinstate you in the class roster.

More Information
I have an open classroom called The Sandbox where I compare my online classes to in person, bricks-and-mortar classrooms. In addition to this comparison you can see examples of the various aspects of how my online classes work. If you are not registered for my school, click the “Login as a guest” button.

If you would like to participate in discussions about my online classes, I do maintain a Yahoo Group, Patternmaking Classes, specifically for this purpose.

How to Make Sewing Patterns — book update

I wrote my book, How to Make Sewing Patterns, back in 1977 and have been asked if I had plans to revise it. There are only two things I do differently today than when I wrote the book 33 years ago. So I am focusing my time on teaching my online Patternmaking Classes and developing supplemental material to my book as Pattern Design Guides rather than taking the time to revise the existing book.

The two things I do differently are I use gingham for fitting the bodice and skirt. And I have revised how I draft the woman’s front bodice pattern.

Gingham for Fitting:
When I was teaching Pattern Design at San Francisco Community College Adult Education Division back in the 70s I would stress the importance of looking at the grain of the fabric to determine whether the fit was correct. As we were using muslin, I would carry around a magnifying glass so that people could clearly identify the direction of the grain.

Then one day I was in the fabric store. When I walked past the display of gingham, I did a double take. The woven pattern of the different colors of threads in the gingham made the grain jump out. It was so easy to see what was happening to the grain as it is shaped on the three-dimensional human body I knew I had found the perfect fabric to achieve super accurate fittings. When I teach my online Upper Torso Sloper (aka Bodice) and Lower Torso Sloper (aka Skirt) classes I can use student submitted photos to help them achieve accurate fits within an 1/8″.

Woman’s Front Bodice Pattern:
Throughout my book I show how to draft the initial patterns without any darts. I do this because nature never repeats the same shape twice. So it is my contention you will never be able to determine the size, location, or length of darts accurately from measurements. If there were corners and sharp angles in the human body, maybe you could take accurate measurements. But the human body is a series of continuously changing contours. From what I have heard even body scans using sophisticated equipment cannot accurately create a two dimensional representation of an individual’s body from the measurements they take.

The one exception to “no darts” in my book is that I show how to draft a woman’s front using a dart. Once again when I was teaching back in the 70s I had large class sizes and lots of bodies who were willing to helping me develop data. So I came up with a chart for how to adjust the woman’s bodice pattern based on the difference between the full bust and above bust measurements.

But the chart does not cover the full range of possible bust sizes. But more than that, it creates a pattern that has a bust to waist side panel that is tricky to design from. It is essentially off grain. So what I do now is draft the woman’s front pattern without a dart. It creates the size you need so that you can establish a very accurate dart in a fitting.

I have a PDF file with the two revised pages for this draft which you can download and print out to revise the drafting procedure in my book: Women’s Front Bodice Pattern Draft.

To fit this pattern I use a dart into the armscye for the above the bust shape, the “A” Dart, and a dart to the waist to establish the below the bust shape, the “B” Dart. What this fitting procedure does is it allows you to use the horizontal grain around the full bust to create a very accurate “A” dart. You can then adjust the “B” dart to ensure that the vertical grain of the fabric is correct at both the center front and on the side of the body.

With the sloper designed in this way, whatever design lines you draw for the side of the body can be envisioned as they relate to the horizontal grain.

The Joy of a Custom Made Garment

Previously I wrote the post “Tyranny of Standardized Sizing”. I am pleased to be able to follow that up with the results a student in my “Swimsuit, Lingerie, and Empire Dresses” class had. With Deborah’s permission I thought I’d share this experience. But first…

I use my eBook How to Make Bikinis and Bandeaux as a text for my Swimsuit and Lingerie class. In this eBook I describe how to make fitted briefs. The idea is to create the design lines on the body using bias tape and velcro, measure key places, then draft the pattern.

When Deborah said “The most comfortable panties I’ve ever worn!” I wanted to follow through so I asked Deborah the following.

Theoretically I thought that should be the case. But I’d be very interested in knowing if you can pin point the reasons.

• Fit at Waist?
• Fit at the Leg Opening?
• Custom-Fit at Side Seam?
• Cotton/Lycra Material?
• Plush Elastic in the Leg?
• Lace Waistband?
• All of the above ?

Deborah very graciously responded (and again she gave me permission to share this).

Don:

To answer your questions. For the first series, I’d have to say “all of the above.” Everything is where is should be and the cut is like I wanted. (They actually sit below the waist, the legs give full coverage but with a little bit of rise on the side seam.) The material is baby soft. Because they are made to fit me, nothing digs in, nothing pulls, nothing rides up, nothing slips down, and I can’t even tell I have them on!

They look big compared to store bought panties. That was shocking at first because I’m used to the smaller look with more stretch to fit multiple bodies (although not fit all that well.)

The body is a single layer of fabric, with a double layer for the crotch piece.

The “elastic” I used for the waist is the stretch lace. It is 2-1/4″ wide. I just sewed the stretch lace on at the seam line, stretching as I went. (putting the bottom edge of the lace about 1/4 inch below the seam line, and thus the lace itself adds two inches to the height of the panties — that is, when deciding where my waist would be for drafting the pattern, I considered the width of the lace in the calculations and lowered the waist location on the pattern for cutting the material.) Then I trimmed the seam. So that seam under the stretch lace is “unfinished.” But since it’s a knit, that’s not a problem. In addition to the zig-zag for adding the stretch lace, I stitched a row of the lingerie top stitching. It doesn’t show, but adds some more reinforcement to the seam. The stretch lace has a plush backing. It’s lovely.

I think that when all was said and done, I had taken in about 2 -1/8″ to 2-3/8″ on each side seam, according to comparing the measurements I wrote down, and measuring the latest version of the pattern which I used without taking it in any further on the side seams. The stretch lace is a length about 5 inches shorter than the measurement around where it attaches to the panties. It’s pretty stretchy, so that holds the panties in place without stretching the lace out of shape or having it dig in at all.

I made some significant changes to the crotch piece to get the fit I needed. I narrowed it both in the front and back, and shortened it in length. Shortening it allowed me to lengthen the material over the buttocks without distorting the shape of the leg opening too much. I’m getting the coverage over the cheeks, and it is fitting perfectly. I played with this a lot until I had it so that it fit the way I wanted. I had a fantastic time working on these panties (I’ve made four pairs so far, each a little better fit than the one previous.)

I got all four pairs out of the 1 yard of fabric, 5 yards of the stretch lace and 5 yards of the picot-edged elastic. The only thing I ran out of was the plush-back, picot-edge elastic for the legs. I might have had enough to do the fourth pair of panties, but it was a close call. I have enough of the stretch lace for another pair. I pre-shrunk everything, and did lose a bit of fabric length that way. But nevertheless, I got four pairs of very nice, extremely (and increasingly with each pair) comfortable panties (with a bit of leftover lace & elastic) for $15.50, plus the cost of thread. I know cost is not the focus of our group, but you can’t beat that for quality panties. And I had a lot of fun doing it and can’t wait to make some more.

Anyway, on the final pair, I used a knit elastic and enclosed it in a fold over seam allowance, and then added my lingerie top stitching. That leg treatment looks fine on the outside, but not as pretty on the inside. Also, it’s thicker around the leg opening due to the layers of fabric. Still comfortable, but I like using the plush-backed elastic better for a thinner layer around the leg opening.

Well, I guess this is more than you asked for.

Absolutely you may use my quote. I greatly appreciate your missionary zeal and your passion for teaching, your creativity and your patience in helping all of us learn.

Deborah

Susan at the Fabric Depot has been wonderfully helpful as a fabric and notion consultant for this class. So I asked her to provide the information about the fabric that Deborah used. Here is that information with links to the appropriate ordering information.

• #FL600 Cotton Lycra (Suntan) @ $10.00 yd.
• #E270 3/8″ Picot/Plush Elastic (Nude) @ $.50yd (minimum 5 yds)
• #LTS0246 2 1/4″ Stretch Lace (no plush back) @ $.75 yd

Susan also made the following comment:

Since this panty is made with cotton lycra, you can make the crotch out of the same cotton lycra. If using nylon lycra, then it is recommended to use #FL675 T-shirt Knit Lining for the crotch pattern piece. (Or you can even take one of husband’s old t-shirts and cut the crotch pattern piece out of it.)

Sewing a Rolled Hem

I found a great techniques for sewing a narrow rolled hem in Sandra Betzina’s book More Fabric Savy. You use fusible thread as follows:

1. Put fusible thread in your bobbin.
2. With the good side up, sew a line of straight stitches 1/4″ (6mm) from the edge.
3. Turn under the hem and press to melt the fusible thread just slightly to the inside of the edge.
4. Trim the excess hem allowance close to the fused stitching.
5. Turn under the trimmed hem, then press.
6. Top stitch the hem in place.

The beauty of this approach is that you can do small rolled hems on complex shapes. I used this technique on the ruffles of this cotton gauze blouse that I made as an example for my online class The Sleeve Sloper and Variations.

The ruffles on the sleeves were created from circles of fabric like the one shown below.

I like this technique so much I created the video below showing a “beginning sewer” using this technique to finish the cuffs on a shirt I had made him.

I have found that my local fabric stores do not carry fusible thread but that it is readily available from a variety of sources online.

Swimsuit and Lingerie Edge Finishes

In preparing or my online patternmaking class Swimsuits, Lingerie, and Empire Dresses one of the things I noticed was how the same pattern could be used for different garments with one of the important differences being the type of edge finish.

As the information about the availability of these different edge finishes is important I created the following videos to show how to achieve each finish using scraps of fabric. As some of the materials used for these finishes may not be readily available I have included links to the online resource Fabric Depot. Susan of the Fabric Depot has been great about being an expert fabric and notions consultant for this class.

• Swimsuit Edging
• Lingerie Edging
• Fold-Over Elastic Edging

Swimsuit Edging

The edges of swimsuits can be created by sewing elastic to the wrong side of the fashion fabric, then turning the elastic and top stitching in place. Elastic for swimsuits should be salt water and chlorine resistant. One type is cotton elastic the other is rubber.

When you create patterns for this type of elastic, create a seam allowance, or what I call an elastic allowance, that is the width of the elastic. This elastic allowance becomes your guide for sewing the elastic.

Lingerie Edging

Lingerie can use the same edging technique as for swimwear or it can use elastic with a fancy picot edge or a plain edge but with a plush back for a softer texture. For fancy picot and plush back elastic, you sew the elastic to the good side of the fabric, trim off any excess allowance then turn it under.

When you create patterns for this type of elastic create an elastic allowance that is the width of the elastic. This elastic allowance becomes your guide for sewing the elastic.

Fold-Over Elastic Edging

Fold-Over elastic is a special type of elastic that folds over the edge of the garment. It sandwiches the fashion fabric between the two edges of the elastic. For this type of edge, the fashion fabric should be cut to the design line with no seam allowance.

Copyright (c) 2010 by Don McCunn

Birth of a Bandeau Bra

In preparing for my next online patternmaking class Swimsuits, Lingerie, and Empire Dresses I was describing the many different types of garments that can be made using my pattern design system for bikinis, bandeaux, and fitted briefs. The topic of bras came up in my How to Make Sewing Pattern group.

I have been using my bikini pattern to create Bikini Bras for different models up to a “C” cup bra size. But when I started experimenting with larger bust sizes I realized that my bandeau pattern offers a better solution. Good bra engineering for large bust sizes provides support for the bust from the rib cage rather than shoulder straps. The bikini pattern relies on straps tied around the neck. My bandeau pattern on the other hand uses the support provided by the difference between the above bust and the full bust circumferences. My bandeau pattern is not just a straight strip of fabric. It uses a dart between center front and the apex to create the shape of a custom-fit bra cup.

While I have used the bandeau for costumes, gowns, and swimsuits, I had not applied it’s shape to creating a bra. Now I have. It is still in infancy as a bra design but I find the potential very hopeful because these bras are so quick and easy to construct. It can be made from one pattern piece using quality bra making supplies such as Tricot bonded foam, plush back elastic, powernet, and bra back closures. Straps can be added if desired but they are not the primary support structure as can happen too often in commercial bras. This bra does not require underwires and the pattern may be easily adapted for the prosthesis of women who have had radical mastectomies. My next project is to try this bandeau bra on my model who wears a 38DD in a commercial bra.

In the video above you can see my first bandeau bra. I made it from a wonderful powernet like fabric called Rubenesque. Susan of the Fabric Depot has been very supportive of my online classes. When she acquired this fabric as a special purchase, she sent me a sample to see how I would respond to it. I love it. It is one of the friendliest fabrics I have ever worked with. I just regret that when she sells out her current inventory it will no longer be available. Fortunately the bandeau bra can be made from regular powernet as well.

The Tryanny of Standardized Sizing

In preparation for my class Swimsuits, Lingerie, and Empire Dresses I was reading The Lingerie Handbook by Rebecca Apsan. Rebecca owns “La Petite Couquette” lingerie store in New York City. She goes into a fair amount of detail about the ins and outs of buying lingerie from her experience running this store and helping her customers get the best fit. When I came to the section on panties she includes a size chart. Here is a brief summary of sizing:

The chart includes every size from 4/XS to 15/8XL. If you analyze the numbers, each increase in size is two inches larger than the preceding size. This is reflective of how the industry grades from one body shape to an entire range of sizes.

From the perspective of someone who helps people achieve a custom fit, not everyone has a proportional difference of 10″ or 11″ between their waist and hip measurements. If your body shape falls into this proportion, then you are lucky as you should have no trouble finding panties that are comfortable and fit you well.

I don’t do surveys of the various panty manufacturers so maybe there are companies that use a different proportion. I sure hope so because this shaping does not work for a lot of the people who I have helped over the years.

So it was interesting to me to read Rebecca’s solution to helping people find a fit that works for them. One solution she mentioned is that if you have a large waist, then she recommends the low rise boy shorts. She also touts how well thongs work to eliminate VPL (visible panty lines).

My personal feeling is that if your body does not fall into the proportions that the industry uses, you should be able to have both the fit and the look you want for your specific body shape, size, and personal aesthetic.

Fortunately for those of you who sew, or are interested in learning to sew, this is easy to achieve as shown in the photos above of three of the different models I have worked with. Each had a different body and a different way they wanted it covered.

The fitted briefs, or panties, shown here are one of the focuses of my online class Swimsuits, Lingerie, and Empire Dresses. They are derived from the research and development I did for the pattern design techniques I describe in my book How to Make Bikinis and Bandeaux.