Don McCunn's Blog

Heat Sink Cord Finish

One of my frustrations has been to have a nice finish to the ends of elasticized cording for swim suits. For some time now I have been meaning to try heat shrink tubing. I finally did it the other day and was very pleased with the result. It is very similar to the finish on shoe laces. Heat shrink tubing comes in a variety of sizes and colors, even clear. It is available form hardware stores and Radio Shack.

Here are the steps I followed:

In the example below I tied the cording to the ring, then slipped a length of heat shrink tubing over the elastic and did the heat shrinking. I like the way it encloses the entire elastic. Had I wanted to I could have used a longer length of tubing and enclosed the elastic all the way to the ring.

“X” Back Bikini Top

My model Alex mentioned that she would like a swimsuit that did not have a strap around the neck. The photos below show what I created. The ties go from rings in the front, across the back to the opposite side, then back to tie at the rib cage level at center back. Once we had the elastic adjusted to her preference, I tied the elastic to the rings on the sides. All she has to do to take this top on and off is to tie and untie it at center back.

The top itself is made with velvet Lycra from one of the Fabric Depot Valu-Packs. I used a princess seam for the bikini top for optimum shaping. In this example I used 1/8″ elasticized cord. With the ring design it would be easy to change this to wider straps if so desired. Actually the rings give this particular design a lot of flexibility. The swimsuit rings also came from Fabric Depot.

The Joy of a Custom Made Garment

Previously I wrote the post “Tyranny of Standardized Sizing”. I am pleased to be able to follow that up with the results a student in my “Swimsuit, Lingerie, and Empire Dresses” class had. With Deborah’s permission I thought I’d share this experience. But first…

I use my eBook How to Make Bikinis and Bandeaux as a text for my Swimsuit and Lingerie class. In this eBook I describe how to make fitted briefs. The idea is to create the design lines on the body using bias tape and velcro, measure key places, then draft the pattern.

When Deborah said “The most comfortable panties I’ve ever worn!” I wanted to follow through so I asked Deborah the following.

Theoretically I thought that should be the case. But I’d be very interested in knowing if you can pin point the reasons.

• Fit at Waist?
• Fit at the Leg Opening?
• Custom-Fit at Side Seam?
• Cotton/Lycra Material?
• Plush Elastic in the Leg?
• Lace Waistband?
• All of the above ?

Deborah very graciously responded (and again she gave me permission to share this).

Don:

To answer your questions. For the first series, I’d have to say “all of the above.” Everything is where is should be and the cut is like I wanted. (They actually sit below the waist, the legs give full coverage but with a little bit of rise on the side seam.) The material is baby soft. Because they are made to fit me, nothing digs in, nothing pulls, nothing rides up, nothing slips down, and I can’t even tell I have them on!

They look big compared to store bought panties. That was shocking at first because I’m used to the smaller look with more stretch to fit multiple bodies (although not fit all that well.)

The body is a single layer of fabric, with a double layer for the crotch piece.

The “elastic” I used for the waist is the stretch lace. It is 2-1/4″ wide. I just sewed the stretch lace on at the seam line, stretching as I went. (putting the bottom edge of the lace about 1/4 inch below the seam line, and thus the lace itself adds two inches to the height of the panties — that is, when deciding where my waist would be for drafting the pattern, I considered the width of the lace in the calculations and lowered the waist location on the pattern for cutting the material.) Then I trimmed the seam. So that seam under the stretch lace is “unfinished.” But since it’s a knit, that’s not a problem. In addition to the zig-zag for adding the stretch lace, I stitched a row of the lingerie top stitching. It doesn’t show, but adds some more reinforcement to the seam. The stretch lace has a plush backing. It’s lovely.

I think that when all was said and done, I had taken in about 2 -1/8″ to 2-3/8″ on each side seam, according to comparing the measurements I wrote down, and measuring the latest version of the pattern which I used without taking it in any further on the side seams. The stretch lace is a length about 5 inches shorter than the measurement around where it attaches to the panties. It’s pretty stretchy, so that holds the panties in place without stretching the lace out of shape or having it dig in at all.

I made some significant changes to the crotch piece to get the fit I needed. I narrowed it both in the front and back, and shortened it in length. Shortening it allowed me to lengthen the material over the buttocks without distorting the shape of the leg opening too much. I’m getting the coverage over the cheeks, and it is fitting perfectly. I played with this a lot until I had it so that it fit the way I wanted. I had a fantastic time working on these panties (I’ve made four pairs so far, each a little better fit than the one previous.)

I got all four pairs out of the 1 yard of fabric, 5 yards of the stretch lace and 5 yards of the picot-edged elastic. The only thing I ran out of was the plush-back, picot-edge elastic for the legs. I might have had enough to do the fourth pair of panties, but it was a close call. I have enough of the stretch lace for another pair. I pre-shrunk everything, and did lose a bit of fabric length that way. But nevertheless, I got four pairs of very nice, extremely (and increasingly with each pair) comfortable panties (with a bit of leftover lace & elastic) for $15.50, plus the cost of thread. I know cost is not the focus of our group, but you can’t beat that for quality panties. And I had a lot of fun doing it and can’t wait to make some more.

Anyway, on the final pair, I used a knit elastic and enclosed it in a fold over seam allowance, and then added my lingerie top stitching. That leg treatment looks fine on the outside, but not as pretty on the inside. Also, it’s thicker around the leg opening due to the layers of fabric. Still comfortable, but I like using the plush-backed elastic better for a thinner layer around the leg opening.

Well, I guess this is more than you asked for.

Absolutely you may use my quote. I greatly appreciate your missionary zeal and your passion for teaching, your creativity and your patience in helping all of us learn.

Deborah

Susan at the Fabric Depot has been wonderfully helpful as a fabric and notion consultant for this class. So I asked her to provide the information about the fabric that Deborah used. Here is that information with links to the appropriate ordering information.

• #FL600 Cotton Lycra (Suntan) @ $10.00 yd.
• #E270 3/8″ Picot/Plush Elastic (Nude) @ $.50yd (minimum 5 yds)
• #LTS0246 2 1/4″ Stretch Lace (no plush back) @ $.75 yd

Susan also made the following comment:

Since this panty is made with cotton lycra, you can make the crotch out of the same cotton lycra. If using nylon lycra, then it is recommended to use #FL675 T-shirt Knit Lining for the crotch pattern piece. (Or you can even take one of husband’s old t-shirts and cut the crotch pattern piece out of it.)

Swimsuit and Lingerie Edge Finishes

In preparing or my online patternmaking class Swimsuits, Lingerie, and Empire Dresses one of the things I noticed was how the same pattern could be used for different garments with one of the important differences being the type of edge finish.

As the information about the availability of these different edge finishes is important I created the following videos to show how to achieve each finish using scraps of fabric. As some of the materials used for these finishes may not be readily available I have included links to the online resource Fabric Depot. Susan of the Fabric Depot has been great about being an expert fabric and notions consultant for this class.

• Swimsuit Edging
• Lingerie Edging
• Fold-Over Elastic Edging

Swimsuit Edging

The edges of swimsuits can be created by sewing elastic to the wrong side of the fashion fabric, then turning the elastic and top stitching in place. Elastic for swimsuits should be salt water and chlorine resistant. One type is cotton elastic the other is rubber.

When you create patterns for this type of elastic, create a seam allowance, or what I call an elastic allowance, that is the width of the elastic. This elastic allowance becomes your guide for sewing the elastic.

Lingerie Edging

Lingerie can use the same edging technique as for swimwear or it can use elastic with a fancy picot edge or a plain edge but with a plush back for a softer texture. For fancy picot and plush back elastic, you sew the elastic to the good side of the fabric, trim off any excess allowance then turn it under.

When you create patterns for this type of elastic create an elastic allowance that is the width of the elastic. This elastic allowance becomes your guide for sewing the elastic.

Fold-Over Elastic Edging

Fold-Over elastic is a special type of elastic that folds over the edge of the garment. It sandwiches the fashion fabric between the two edges of the elastic. For this type of edge, the fashion fabric should be cut to the design line with no seam allowance.

Copyright (c) 2010 by Don McCunn

Birth of a Bandeau Bra

In preparing for my next online patternmaking class Swimsuits, Lingerie, and Empire Dresses I was describing the many different types of garments that can be made using my pattern design system for bikinis, bandeaux, and fitted briefs. The topic of bras came up in my How to Make Sewing Pattern group.

I have been using my bikini pattern to create Bikini Bras for different models up to a “C” cup bra size. But when I started experimenting with larger bust sizes I realized that my bandeau pattern offers a better solution. Good bra engineering for large bust sizes provides support for the bust from the rib cage rather than shoulder straps. The bikini pattern relies on straps tied around the neck. My bandeau pattern on the other hand uses the support provided by the difference between the above bust and the full bust circumferences. My bandeau pattern is not just a straight strip of fabric. It uses a dart between center front and the apex to create the shape of a custom-fit bra cup.

While I have used the bandeau for costumes, gowns, and swimsuits, I had not applied it’s shape to creating a bra. Now I have. It is still in infancy as a bra design but I find the potential very hopeful because these bras are so quick and easy to construct. It can be made from one pattern piece using quality bra making supplies such as Tricot bonded foam, plush back elastic, powernet, and bra back closures. Straps can be added if desired but they are not the primary support structure as can happen too often in commercial bras. This bra does not require underwires and the pattern may be easily adapted for the prosthesis of women who have had radical mastectomies. My next project is to try this bandeau bra on my model who wears a 38DD in a commercial bra.

In the video above you can see my first bandeau bra. I made it from a wonderful powernet like fabric called Rubenesque. Susan of the Fabric Depot has been very supportive of my online classes. When she acquired this fabric as a special purchase, she sent me a sample to see how I would respond to it. I love it. It is one of the friendliest fabrics I have ever worked with. I just regret that when she sells out her current inventory it will no longer be available. Fortunately the bandeau bra can be made from regular powernet as well.

The Tryanny of Standardized Sizing

In preparation for my class Swimsuits, Lingerie, and Empire Dresses I was reading The Lingerie Handbook by Rebecca Apsan. Rebecca owns “La Petite Couquette” lingerie store in New York City. She goes into a fair amount of detail about the ins and outs of buying lingerie from her experience running this store and helping her customers get the best fit. When I came to the section on panties she includes a size chart. Here is a brief summary of sizing:

The chart includes every size from 4/XS to 15/8XL. If you analyze the numbers, each increase in size is two inches larger than the preceding size. This is reflective of how the industry grades from one body shape to an entire range of sizes.

From the perspective of someone who helps people achieve a custom fit, not everyone has a proportional difference of 10″ or 11″ between their waist and hip measurements. If your body shape falls into this proportion, then you are lucky as you should have no trouble finding panties that are comfortable and fit you well.

I don’t do surveys of the various panty manufacturers so maybe there are companies that use a different proportion. I sure hope so because this shaping does not work for a lot of the people who I have helped over the years.

So it was interesting to me to read Rebecca’s solution to helping people find a fit that works for them. One solution she mentioned is that if you have a large waist, then she recommends the low rise boy shorts. She also touts how well thongs work to eliminate VPL (visible panty lines).

My personal feeling is that if your body does not fall into the proportions that the industry uses, you should be able to have both the fit and the look you want for your specific body shape, size, and personal aesthetic.

Fortunately for those of you who sew, or are interested in learning to sew, this is easy to achieve as shown in the photos above of three of the different models I have worked with. Each had a different body and a different way they wanted it covered.

The fitted briefs, or panties, shown here are one of the focuses of my online class Swimsuits, Lingerie, and Empire Dresses. They are derived from the research and development I did for the pattern design techniques I describe in my book How to Make Bikinis and Bandeaux.

Homage to Heidi Klum and Project Runway

I have been a fan of the TV series Project Runway since the first season. I find the challenges interesting as each designer uses their individual aesthetic to resolve the issues. I also appreciate the fact that this show is encouraging more people, not just the contestants, to explore their creativity through fashion design.

When I started to explore the background of the series I ran across the YouTube videos of Heidi Klum modeling the 11 Million Dollar Bra for Victoria Secret. I immediately knew I had to make a similar garment. I had just completed my eBook How to Make Bikinis and Bandeaux and knew I could use this design system to create my version. When my model Alex agreed to model this garment I went ahead with this project.

While the bra Heidi Klum modeled was made up of diamonds, sapphires, and rubies I did not have the budget to do an exact replica. So my version is made of Swarovski crystals and rhinestones. Still the materials cost over $250 and it took a week of careful hand sewing to complete.

With the introduction of my class Swimsuits, Lingerie, and Empire Dresses which uses this same unique design system I felt the time had come to pay homage to Heidi and Project Runway. Fortunately Alex once again agreed to be my model. So here it is.

I have additional photographs of this garment in my Photo Galleries.

I’d like to take this opportunity to thank my model Alex for all the wonderful work she has done to make my Online Patternmaking classes possible.

Butterfly Outfit, Sewing

(Click on any of the thumbnails to see a larger image.)

Hi, More on this outfit later. But for now I am posting a quick message to answer a question on the Yahoo Group Sewing Dance Costumes. This is an outfit made from Lycra Velvet. It has a subtle butterfly pattern in it, hence the name. I chose to cut the fabric so that the fibers of the velvet point upwards. This tends to make the garment look darker in photos. If the fibers were pointing down, the pattern would probably be more obvious in photos but the garment would not be as rich in real life. The description of how this garment is sewn is in response to a question that has occurred as to what is the best way to sew trim and straps for swimsuits and this type of garment. I experimented with several techniques for making athletic bras and this is my ultimate solution. One problem I encountered is that some commercial garments I examined combined the straps with the arm opening. When I tried this, the arm openings gaped open. I found combining the straps into the necklines as shown here to be a more effective solution.

Sewing Technique

Cut arm and neck openings with no seam allowances. This will be the finished edge after the trim is applied. Cut trim from fashion fabric 1-1/2″ (cm) wide by slightly longer than the arm opening. Pin the trim to the arm opening along the edge of the arm opening, good sides together. Sew with a 1mm zigzag using a 1/4″ (6mm) seam allowance. Turn the trim to the inside of the garment and baste in place to create a 1/4″ (6mm) trim as seen from the right side. The photo above shows this step from the inside of the garment. From the good side, stitch in the ditch, then trim the excess seam allowance of the trim.	Cut a strip 1-1/2″ (cm) wide by the length of the combined neck openings and shoulder straps plus 1″ (cm) for seam allowances. Cut 1/4″ elastic the same length as the fabric for Step 7. Form a loop of the elastic overlaping the ends by 1″, then zigzag. Form a loop of the fashion fabric from Step 7, good sides together, then sew with a 1/2″ (cm) seam allowance. Zigzag the elastic to the edge of the wrong side edge of the fashion fabric loop. Pin the fashion fabric loop to the body of the garment, right sides together, matching center front, center back, and other sewing notches, see photo above.
Sew the loop to the neckline edges using a 1mm zigzag stitch as shown in the photo above.	Turn the fashion fabric for the neckline trim to the inside of the garment and hand baste in place as described in Step 5, see photo. From the good side, stitch in the ditch around the necklines using a 1mm zigzag. Zigzag around the strap and neckline trim. This is decorative top stitching of your choice. I recommend a wide zigzag or three step zigzag. In Lycra velvet such as this garment, the stitching is virtually invisible. Trim the excess seam allowance from the strap/neckline trim fabric.

Bikini Pool-side Photo Shoot

Hi All,

On Saturday, August 30th I had a great time at a photo shoot. I am going to use this post to tell you about it–over time. To see a larger photo, click on one of the images.

These photos show show swimsuits that were created using my new eBook How to Make Bikinis and Bandeaus. The first photo shows the three bikinis I made straight from measurements with no fitting. This is possible because of the design process described in the eBook and demonstrated on the video you can see when you visit the eBook page.

The saga is to be continued.