Don McCunn's Blog

Online Patternmaking Class Scheduling

My Online Patternmaking Classes are scheduled to begin at different times throughout the year. So far I have only offered any given course once a year. I am very interested in expanding the courses I offer to explore design variations for different types of garments. As I add more courses it may take more than a year before I repeat a given course. I am committed to offering the basic sloper classes (Bras, Upper Torso, Sleeves, Lower Torso, & Pants) at least once a year.

I am flexible about accommodating people who do not want to wait for a class to “officially” begin. Here is the difference between taking one of my classes when it is scheduled and taking it as an “Independent Studies class” at any time that is suitable for you.

Scheduled Class Time:
When a class is scheduled for a given time I usually open it for enrollment two weeks before it starts. When I open it for enrollment I announce it to my Yahoo groups and notify my Email List. Once a class is open for enrollment and before class starts enrolled students will see a “Welcome to…” section.

Each of my classes is divided into a series of weeks. Once the scheduled time occurs, I open the appropriate week. These weeks include streaming videos as my lecture/demonstrations. There may also be some additional web pages or PDF files depending on the content of the class.

Each week there is a one hour interactive chat at a specific time that enrolled students are welcome to participate in. I post transcripts of these chats immediately afterward for everyone in the class. There is also a forum where people can ask questions and share their ongoing patternmaking experience. Some enjoy hearing how others in the class are progressing. Participating in the chats and the forum are voluntary.

Independent Studies Class Times:
If you wish to take one of my classes that is currently not scheduled, contact me at Don@deofsf.com and tell me the class you are interested in taking. I will open it for enrollment long enough for you to join the class.

If the class is currently running, you will see the material for the class according to the scheduled time. You can participate in whatever chats remain.

If it is outside of the class’s normal scheduled time, you will see all the material for all the weeks of the class. You will also be able to read the messages to the forum and the transcripts of the chats. You can post any questions or comments you have in the forum.

Open Time Management
It is up to you to schedule when you do the work for my online classes. There are no deadlines for submitting completed projects and no grades for completing the work for the class. I will not be breathing down your neck asking when you are going to finish a task. There are no doors that open or close.

I am available to help you whenever and however you need it 365 days a year (almost–I do take an occasional day off). Once you are in one of my classes I place no time limit for how long I will be available to help you. I want to see you successfully accomplish the work you set out to do no matter how long that may take to achieve.

Repeating a Class
My current policy is not to charge when you want to repeat a class you have already taken. The school software automatically bumps people who do not use a given class for half a year. But if that happens and you want to get back in, just contact me and I will reinstate you in the class roster.

More Information
I have an open classroom called The Sandbox where I compare my online classes to in person, bricks-and-mortar classrooms. In addition to this comparison you can see examples of the various aspects of how my online classes work. If you are not registered for my school, click the “Login as a guest” button.

If you would like to participate in discussions about my online classes, I do maintain a Yahoo Group, Patternmaking Classes, specifically for this purpose.

How to Make Sewing Patterns — book update

I wrote my book, How to Make Sewing Patterns, back in 1977 and have been asked if I had plans to revise it. There are only two things I do differently today than when I wrote the book 33 years ago. So I am focusing my time on teaching my online Patternmaking Classes and developing supplemental material to my book as Pattern Design Guides rather than taking the time to revise the existing book.

The two things I do differently are I use gingham for fitting the bodice and skirt. And I have revised how I draft the woman’s front bodice pattern.

Gingham for Fitting:
When I was teaching Pattern Design at San Francisco Community College Adult Education Division back in the 70s I would stress the importance of looking at the grain of the fabric to determine whether the fit was correct. As we were using muslin, I would carry around a magnifying glass so that people could clearly identify the direction of the grain.

Then one day I was in the fabric store. When I walked past the display of gingham, I did a double take. The woven pattern of the different colors of threads in the gingham made the grain jump out. It was so easy to see what was happening to the grain as it is shaped on the three-dimensional human body I knew I had found the perfect fabric to achieve super accurate fittings. When I teach my online Upper Torso Sloper (aka Bodice) and Lower Torso Sloper (aka Skirt) classes I can use student submitted photos to help them achieve accurate fits within an 1/8″.

Woman’s Front Bodice Pattern:
Throughout my book I show how to draft the initial patterns without any darts. I do this because nature never repeats the same shape twice. So it is my contention you will never be able to determine the size, location, or length of darts accurately from measurements. If there were corners and sharp angles in the human body, maybe you could take accurate measurements. But the human body is a series of continuously changing contours. From what I have heard even body scans using sophisticated equipment cannot accurately create a two dimensional representation of an individual’s body from the measurements they take.

The one exception to “no darts” in my book is that I show how to draft a woman’s front using a dart. Once again when I was teaching back in the 70s I had large class sizes and lots of bodies who were willing to helping me develop data. So I came up with a chart for how to adjust the woman’s bodice pattern based on the difference between the full bust and above bust measurements.

But the chart does not cover the full range of possible bust sizes. But more than that, it creates a pattern that has a bust to waist side panel that is tricky to design from. It is essentially off grain. So what I do now is draft the woman’s front pattern without a dart. It creates the size you need so that you can establish a very accurate dart in a fitting.

I have a PDF file with the two revised pages for this draft which you can download and print out to revise the drafting procedure in my book: Women’s Front Bodice Pattern Draft.

To fit this pattern I use a dart into the armscye for the above the bust shape, the “A” Dart, and a dart to the waist to establish the below the bust shape, the “B” Dart. What this fitting procedure does is it allows you to use the horizontal grain around the full bust to create a very accurate “A” dart. You can then adjust the “B” dart to ensure that the vertical grain of the fabric is correct at both the center front and on the side of the body.

With the sloper designed in this way, whatever design lines you draw for the side of the body can be envisioned as they relate to the horizontal grain.

The Joy of a Custom Made Garment

Previously I wrote the post “Tyranny of Standardized Sizing”. I am pleased to be able to follow that up with the results a student in my “Swimsuit, Lingerie, and Empire Dresses” class had. With Deborah’s permission I thought I’d share this experience. But first…

I use my eBook How to Make Bikinis and Bandeaux as a text for my Swimsuit and Lingerie class. In this eBook I describe how to make fitted briefs. The idea is to create the design lines on the body using bias tape and velcro, measure key places, then draft the pattern.

When Deborah said “The most comfortable panties I’ve ever worn!” I wanted to follow through so I asked Deborah the following.

Theoretically I thought that should be the case. But I’d be very interested in knowing if you can pin point the reasons.

• Fit at Waist?
• Fit at the Leg Opening?
• Custom-Fit at Side Seam?
• Cotton/Lycra Material?
• Plush Elastic in the Leg?
• Lace Waistband?
• All of the above ?

Deborah very graciously responded (and again she gave me permission to share this).

Don:

To answer your questions. For the first series, I’d have to say “all of the above.” Everything is where is should be and the cut is like I wanted. (They actually sit below the waist, the legs give full coverage but with a little bit of rise on the side seam.) The material is baby soft. Because they are made to fit me, nothing digs in, nothing pulls, nothing rides up, nothing slips down, and I can’t even tell I have them on!

They look big compared to store bought panties. That was shocking at first because I’m used to the smaller look with more stretch to fit multiple bodies (although not fit all that well.)

The body is a single layer of fabric, with a double layer for the crotch piece.

The “elastic” I used for the waist is the stretch lace. It is 2-1/4″ wide. I just sewed the stretch lace on at the seam line, stretching as I went. (putting the bottom edge of the lace about 1/4 inch below the seam line, and thus the lace itself adds two inches to the height of the panties — that is, when deciding where my waist would be for drafting the pattern, I considered the width of the lace in the calculations and lowered the waist location on the pattern for cutting the material.) Then I trimmed the seam. So that seam under the stretch lace is “unfinished.” But since it’s a knit, that’s not a problem. In addition to the zig-zag for adding the stretch lace, I stitched a row of the lingerie top stitching. It doesn’t show, but adds some more reinforcement to the seam. The stretch lace has a plush backing. It’s lovely.

I think that when all was said and done, I had taken in about 2 -1/8″ to 2-3/8″ on each side seam, according to comparing the measurements I wrote down, and measuring the latest version of the pattern which I used without taking it in any further on the side seams. The stretch lace is a length about 5 inches shorter than the measurement around where it attaches to the panties. It’s pretty stretchy, so that holds the panties in place without stretching the lace out of shape or having it dig in at all.

I made some significant changes to the crotch piece to get the fit I needed. I narrowed it both in the front and back, and shortened it in length. Shortening it allowed me to lengthen the material over the buttocks without distorting the shape of the leg opening too much. I’m getting the coverage over the cheeks, and it is fitting perfectly. I played with this a lot until I had it so that it fit the way I wanted. I had a fantastic time working on these panties (I’ve made four pairs so far, each a little better fit than the one previous.)

I got all four pairs out of the 1 yard of fabric, 5 yards of the stretch lace and 5 yards of the picot-edged elastic. The only thing I ran out of was the plush-back, picot-edge elastic for the legs. I might have had enough to do the fourth pair of panties, but it was a close call. I have enough of the stretch lace for another pair. I pre-shrunk everything, and did lose a bit of fabric length that way. But nevertheless, I got four pairs of very nice, extremely (and increasingly with each pair) comfortable panties (with a bit of leftover lace & elastic) for $15.50, plus the cost of thread. I know cost is not the focus of our group, but you can’t beat that for quality panties. And I had a lot of fun doing it and can’t wait to make some more.

Anyway, on the final pair, I used a knit elastic and enclosed it in a fold over seam allowance, and then added my lingerie top stitching. That leg treatment looks fine on the outside, but not as pretty on the inside. Also, it’s thicker around the leg opening due to the layers of fabric. Still comfortable, but I like using the plush-backed elastic better for a thinner layer around the leg opening.

Well, I guess this is more than you asked for.

Absolutely you may use my quote. I greatly appreciate your missionary zeal and your passion for teaching, your creativity and your patience in helping all of us learn.

Deborah

Susan at the Fabric Depot has been wonderfully helpful as a fabric and notion consultant for this class. So I asked her to provide the information about the fabric that Deborah used. Here is that information with links to the appropriate ordering information.

• #FL600 Cotton Lycra (Suntan) @ $10.00 yd.
• #E270 3/8″ Picot/Plush Elastic (Nude) @ $.50yd (minimum 5 yds)
• #LTS0246 2 1/4″ Stretch Lace (no plush back) @ $.75 yd

Susan also made the following comment:

Since this panty is made with cotton lycra, you can make the crotch out of the same cotton lycra. If using nylon lycra, then it is recommended to use #FL675 T-shirt Knit Lining for the crotch pattern piece. (Or you can even take one of husband’s old t-shirts and cut the crotch pattern piece out of it.)

Sewing a Rolled Hem

I found a great techniques for sewing a narrow rolled hem in Sandra Betzina’s book More Fabric Savy. You use fusible thread as follows:

1. Put fusible thread in your bobbin.
2. With the good side up, sew a line of straight stitches 1/4″ (6mm) from the edge.
3. Turn under the hem and press to melt the fusible thread just slightly to the inside of the edge.
4. Trim the excess hem allowance close to the fused stitching.
5. Turn under the trimmed hem, then press.
6. Top stitch the hem in place.

The beauty of this approach is that you can do small rolled hems on complex shapes. I used this technique on the ruffles of this cotton gauze blouse that I made as an example for my online class The Sleeve Sloper and Variations.

The ruffles on the sleeves were created from circles of fabric like the one shown below.

I like this technique so much I created the video below showing a “beginning sewer” using this technique to finish the cuffs on a shirt I had made him.

I have found that my local fabric stores do not carry fusible thread but that it is readily available from a variety of sources online.