Don McCunn's Blog

Birth of a Bandeau Bra

January 20, 2010 on 9:39 pm | In Bikinis & Bandeaus, Favorite Designs, Fitting Issues, Online Classes, Pattern Design Guides, Sewing Techniques | 1 Comment

In preparing for my next online patternmaking class Swimsuits, Lingerie, and Empire Dresses I was describing the many different types of garments that can be made using my pattern design system for bikinis, bandeaux, and fitted briefs. The topic of bras came up in my How to Make Sewing Pattern group.

I have been using my bikini pattern to create Bikini Bras for different models up to a “C” cup bra size. But when I started experimenting with larger bust sizes I realized that my bandeau pattern offers a better solution. Good bra engineering for large bust sizes provides support for the bust from the rib cage rather than shoulder straps. The bikini pattern relies on straps tied around the neck. My bandeau pattern on the other hand uses the support provided by the difference between the above bust and the full bust circumferences. My bandeau pattern is not just a straight strip of fabric. It uses a dart between center front and the apex to create the shape of a custom-fit bra cup.

While I have used the bandeau for costumes, gowns, and swimsuits, I had not applied it’s shape to creating a bra. Now I have. It is still in infancy as a bra design but I find the potential very hopeful because these bras are so quick and easy to construct. It can be made from one pattern piece using quality bra making supplies such as Tricot bonded foam, plush back elastic, powernet, and bra back closures. Straps can be added if desired but they are not the primary support structure as can happen too often in commercial bras. This bra does not require underwires and the pattern may be easily adapted for the prosthesis of women who have had radical mastectomies. My next project is to try this bandeau bra on my model who wears a 38DD in a commercial bra.

In the video above you can see my first bandeau bra. I made it from a wonderful powernet like fabric called Rubenesque. Susan of the Fabric Depot has been very supportive of my online classes. When she acquired this fabric as a special purchase, she sent me a sample to see how I would respond to it. I love it. It is one of the friendliest fabrics I have ever worked with. I just regret that when she sells out her current inventory it will no longer be available. Fortunately the bandeau bra can be made from regular powernet as well.