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Books & Online Patternmaking Classes
by Don McCunn New Classes: Computer Aided Pattern Design
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These classes describe two basic approaches to creating patterns: Bespoke and Ready-to-Wear. Bespoke are patterns made to custom fit a specific body. The process starts with the body and is described in How to Make Sewing Patterns and How to Make Custom-Fit Bras & Lingerie. Ready-to-Wear, RTW, patterns are made for general body shapes that hopefully fit as many bodies as possible.
Fashion & Costume Design in Quarter Scale illustrates how body shapes vary to illustrate the difference between Bespoke and RTW. It introduces a new approach for making Bespoke patterns that do not require an in-person fitting by Tracing Quarter-Scale Photographs. It provides patterns and instructions for making 15 different quarter-scale Mini-Me dress forms that can be used as "fitting models" for people interested in creating RTW patterns.
Early in my career teaching pattern design using my book How to Make Sewing Patterns I learned that many people can learn much more easily when they can see demonstrations of processes rather than picking up techniques from books. These online classes are video demonstrations that supplement the material in my books.
"I learned to sew at a young age, making mostly garments for myself and for friends. I decided to learn flat pattern drafting this year because I was tired of the many alterations I need to make to commercial and indie patterns in order to make them fit. I have watched every pattern drafting class on Craftsy, and purchased every book on pattern drafting and fitting there is. Your book, Don, was the only one that delivered the goods. There are books that teach garment fitting, and books mostly geared for the industry that teach drafting, but only yours contains enough information on both subjects to result in garments that fit."
Video Demonstrations for
How to Make Sewing Patterns
How to Make a Lower Torso (aka Skirt) Sloper This course covers the waist-to-hip region for both men and women. The resulting patterns can be used to optimize the fit of the torso portion of pants and it is an essential pattern for creating a Body Double. The course concludes with demonstrations of how to create a variety of different skirt designs.
How to Make a Pants Sloper
This course describes creating pants for both men and women. The pants pattern can be used to simplify the process of creating the leg portion of a Body Double.
How to Make an Upper Torso (aka Bodice) Sloper This course covers the upper torso for both men and women. The resulting patterns are essential patterns for creating a Body Double.
The Sleeve Sloper and Variations
This course describes how to make a fitted sleeve pattern then shows a variety of variatlions in both woven and knit fabric.
How to Make a Body Double
Typically Dress forms are for fitting the torso. This course shows how to make a Body Double that includes the torso, legs, arms, and even adds a head. It includes instructions, such as how to make pipe stands, that are not described in How to Make Sewing Patterns.
Patternmaking Tools and Supplies
This is a list of the tools and supplies required to create the Slopers described in the classes above and How to Make Sewing Patterns.
Video Demonstrations for
How to Make Custom-Fit Bras & Lingerie
How to Make Custom-Fit Bras
This course is about making underwire bras. The initial model for this bra was unable to wear an underwire bra for more than two hours at a time. With the first Bespoke bra I made for her, she wore it for a full week and forgot she had it on.
How to Make Bust Sling Bras and Variations
The Bust Sling Bra is designed specifically for women who need a supportive bra. The resulting patterns can be used to make a variety of garments that do not require a separate undergarment. Read More.
How to Make Swimsuits, Lingerie, & Empire Dresses
The patterns in this course include easy to make bras as well the tops and bottoms of swimsuits, fitted briefs, and empire style tops and dresses.
How to Make Custom-Fit Corsets
This course describes how to make three styles of custom-fit corsets: Underbust, Strapless, and Shoulder Strap. There is no additional text required for the class. The instructions are all included on the website.
Video Demonstrations for
Fashion & Costume Design in Quarter Scale
Fashion & Costume Design in Quarter Scale provides instructions and patterns for creating quarter-scale Mini-Mes to learn pattern making techniques and to prototype design ideas. This process can either be done by hand or by computer as described in Computer Aided Pattern Design, CAPD
How to Make a Mini-Me (A Work in Progress See Making a Mini-Me pdf)
This course describes how to make quarter scale Mini-Me Dress Forms.
Scaling Patterns (A Work in Progress. See Scale Rulers)
This course describes how to scale patterns from full size to quarter scale and quarter scale to full size using paper and pencil.
Computer Aided Pattern Design, CAPD (A Work in Progress)
This course describes how to use Shilouette America's free Studio program to create and design both Bespoke and RTW patterns.
Video Demonstrations for
An Introduction to Pattern Design
This course supplements the material in the free e-Book An Introduction to Pattern Design. While creating fitted Slopers is the first step--you do it once. Designing patterns from the Slopers is something that you will do as often as you want. This course allows you to immediately practice creating designs by providing a readily available, predetermined shape--a wine bottle. The instructions are designed for beginning as well as advanced sewers. For more information, see the Overview.
Pattern Design Activities for Kids
Pattern design is not rocket science. On this website I show how any one over the age of 5 can create their own original pattern designs for three dimensional shapes even before they learn to sew. The first three parts illustrate the basic pattern design techniques. For people who want to sew, the fourth part describes basic hand and machine sewing techniques.
For NSFW photographs by Don McCunn, visit Revisiting the Classics
Don McCunn's Pattern Design Guide e-Books and
Patterns for Fashion Dolls have been discontinued.
Other Publications -- Current Publishers